Lister Lh 150 Gearbox Manual __EXCLUSIVE__
After trying to vacuum pump the oil out of the gear boxes (which was very muddy) and not really getting anywhere fast, and having to fix the pump a few times, I gave up and found the sump plugs instead, much easier! however I'm not convinced the dipsticks are in the correct boxes, maybe someone with the same gearbox can help.
Lister Lh 150 Gearbox Manual
Also trying to suck the engine oil out was a pain also, I had run the engine for about 20 minuets but still felt painfully slow, but I couldn't find the sump plug, can't seem to find it on and manuals either, does anyone know where it is? If not or if it's too difficult to get to, I may invest in an electric oil pump.
I have a narrowboat with, I'm told, a Lister LH150 Hydraulic Reverse gearbox. Having made it through the Standedge Tunnel, it started to cut out when I put it into reverse. Initially it would restart and move into reverse okay, but it became progressively worse on the downhill stretch to Huddersfield, and since getting to Mirfield I was unable to get it into Reverse at all, it's permanently stuck in forward gear.
I've got it down to a wharf in Wakefield and they've checked it over, but it's nothing particularly obvious (adjustment etc) so I need advice from an expert - is it fixable? Am I looking at getting it taken off and sent away somewhere? New gearbox time?
You can check the adjustments but I doubt if they will be causing that problem. If the forward gear adjusting bolt has run out of free play then the clutch cones would be beginning to disengage and to slip like a cars clutch when driving forwards and would disengage allowing neutral and astern gears to be had. If the adjustment bolts locknut has come undone and the bolt screwed itself right in ''highly unlikely'' and so making enough free play that its hydraulic slave cylinder piston runs out of travel and hits its circlip stop then it would remain engaged in forward gear. A quick way of checking the hydraulic pressure at the slave cylinder is to slacken off the three slave cylinder bolts located on the back of the gearbox case by about 4 full turns, start up and try to put it into neutral or reverse, if there's hydraulic pressure the slave cylinder body will be forced out to the bolt heads leaving a gap, none or only a little oil should leak or squirt out because of internal ''o''rings around its body. I should think that the reverse gear brake band and adjustment is ok. But check oil first of all as Mayalld suggests.
Looking at a not very comprehensive diagram in a manual it looks as if the ahead clutch is pulled out of mesh by a lever on the main operating arm that is part of the cross shaft. I can not see how this is connects the the ahead clutch but parts look remarkably similar to the LH150 ahead setup. Going by that I suspect there is a circlip that holds the ahead clutch cone into the operating mechanism and if this falls off the box stays in ahead and locks up when it is put into astern.
I have just rebuilt a small boat which has a Lister SL1 single cylinder air cooled diesel for motive power. The engine is coupled to a Lister SL3 gearbox (Forward / Neutral / Reverse) and then direct drive to the prop. The gearbox has been rebuilt using only the exploded parts diagram as a reference. My problem is that engaging reverse causes deadful granching noises, a few reverse revs of the prop but quickly drags down the engine and would stall it if allowed.
Show Quoted Text Hello Keith, Thank you for your reply. I was actually hoping that you would say the opposite, but what you have said confirms that it is unlikely to be a good idea to back the nut off and use it as an adjuster. As you rightly say, the gears are in mesh all the time, as gearboxes go its about as simple as could be but its also clearly very unhappy at the moment and I am at a loss to identify exactly where the problem lies. I have had it all out again once and double checked everything.
I have seen part of a manual for the LM100 and it does appear to be very similar if not identical, I couldn't see any obvious differences. The engine runs clockwise when standing at the stern and looking forward
Show Quoted Text I am an ex Lister marine designer, although I have no direct experience of the lister boxes (before my time). I suggest you speak to Peter Thompson at Marine Engine Services Uxbridge, (sorry I don't have his number to hand).
From memory its OEP 80 (gear oil) for thereduction box and engine oil for the hydraulic gearbox, but its too long ago formemory to be relied upon. I have no idea about the mechanical box but I wouldexpect it to be engine oil.
Dear Ms D I think that gearbox has an internal adjustment under the small dome on the gearbox top cover. From memory this adjusts a brake band that is supposed to grip the reverse gear drum when reverse is engaged. It has a threaded rod with a screwdriver slot in the top and an adjusting nut. The slot is held and the nut is turned. Lengthen the rod to tighten the band and shorten it to slacken the band. Unfortunately you have to put the top back on the test the adjustment. Also take care that you do not damage the gasket - it's fairly complex and if it fails you may end up with only ahead gear and no reverse or neutral.
Unlike most other hydraulic gearboxes I think this one uses oil pressure for neutral and astern, so lack of oil would leave the box in ahead, but with no neutral as well as no astern - its worth checking. Having got the top off, I would try to see it the band still has any friction material on its face next to the drum. Tony Brooks
We stock various Lister marine gearboxes, available rebuilt or sometimes used, with or without final reduction gearboxes. We specialise in Lister SL4 and LM100 mechanical gearboxes, Lister LH150 hydraulic gearboxes and Lister-Blackstone 2G mechanical gearboxes.
LR & SR 1, 2 & 3 Cylinder Marine Manual & Parts List
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